Word On The Street: Amman City Guide
Jordan's bustling capital is often overlooked by people in search of the famous desert sands and vistas of Petra and Wadi Rum, but this lively capital city proves that there is much more to Jordan than just its natural beauty. Amman's narrow streets and steep hills are crammed full of hidden gems and it is well worth spending some extra time exploring.
BEST TIME TO VISIT?
Jordan is at its best in the Spring when the (somewhat) monochrome cityscape is transformed into a green haven, the sun comes out and spirits lift. Ramadan is an interesting time to visit as you get to see a completely different side to Middle Eastern life but it does make exploring the city slightly more difficult during the day as the whole country becomes nocturnal, eating, drinking coffee, catching up with friends until the early hours of the morning.
HIT THE STREETS
Amman itself is set over several steep hills which makes for very dramatic scenery and plenty of incredible views. The Arabic for mountain or hill is ‘Jabal’, hence the districts are divided into their various hills. The most important districts for tourists (arguably) are Jabal Amman and Jabal Weibdeh which face each other across downtown. The best way to get your bearings on the sprawling city is by beginning at 1st Circle then walking down Rainbow Street, through downtown Amman then up the hill to Weibdeh. This route takes you past all the major sites and keep an eye out for the striking street art!
LUNCH
Joz Hind is a little family-run restaurant in central Weibdeh that specialises in healthy, fresh, delicious, and organic meals. The menu is small and changes daily but there is always a vegetarian option. They only take cash so be sure to draw some beforehand. It makes the perfect lunch spot if you’re wandering around Weibdeh.
COFFEE
Nestled on the edge of Jabal Al-Weibdeh with views overlooking old Amman, Manara is one of the best places to sit and soak up the views whilst enjoying a good cup of coffee. The coffee shop faces west and so often has one of the best sunsets you can find.
Amman comes alive at night so if you are looking to soak up the local atmosphere, Rumi Cafe is the perfect place. Located in Al-Weibdeh, it can be found right in the center of the neighbourhood where it creates a little haven of tranquillity in the chaos of the city. Also, make sure you bring cash here as the minimum spend is 7JOD on a visa card.
MUST-SEE
KING ABDULLAH MOSQUE
If this is your first time visiting the Middle East or if you haven’t been to a mosque before then a trip to King Abdullah’s Mosque is a definite must. It is a classic example of contemporary Islamic Architecture and it commemorated its namesake King Abdullah who was the first King of Jordan. This is one of the few mosques in Amman which openly welcomes non-muslim visitors.
DARAT AL FANUN
Nestled on the edge of Weibdeh, with views of downtown Amman, Darat al Fanun is a gallery and foundation whose aim is to provide contemporary Arab artists with a platform to express their work as well as to support traditional art practices from the region, artistic cultural exchange and critical discourse and to research, document and archive arab art. The foundation is located in some of the most historic buildings in the area, in houses from the 1920s which were among the first residences erected by Jordan’s prominent families. They are a living memory of the history of the city and the shared history of the region and the gallery provides an oasis in the midst of the crowded city centre.
SHOPPING
Downtown Amman is a must-see for anyone in Amman - take your time wandering through the vegetable market, marvel at the streets of gold shops, or stop and buy authentic perfumes from souk sellers. ‘Turquoise Fountain’, which was established by His Majesty King Charles III to revive historical areas and traditional crafts in the Middle East and Asia sells beautifully handcrafted homeware, furniture, and jewellery from local artisans with materials that are sustainably and locally sourced.
DINNER
Shams el-Balad is a family-run business located in downtown Amman that specialises in delicious organic and naturally sourced meals. Shams was founded over 20 years ago as a small shop selling handmade pots and plants. Since then, it has grown into a ‘lifestyle brand’ built around sustainability and simplicity in food, dining, and sourcing. It has a beautifully decorated interior and is the perfect place for a relaxed dinner. There is also a small shop attached to the restaurant which sells locally made gifts such as soap and spices. The muttabal and maqluba are absolutely delicious, and they also have a great selection of wines.
BARS
A firm favourite amongst locals and expats alike, Dali is a vibrant bar found just off ‘Paris Circle’ in Weibdeh. It can get pretty busy in the evenings so be prepared to wait or call ahead and make a reservation. They also offer good Shisha and food if you fancy it. For those looking for a cosier feel, Copas Central is a welcoming Spanish restaurant in 1st Circle. They offer amazing dishes, tapas, as well as a wide selection of drinks and wine.
SLEEP
Weibdeh Heights is perfectly located for exploring the old part of town. Surrounded by lots of coffeeshops, restaurants and bars it is a great welcoming hotel for those who fancy finding their way by foot around the city.
INSIDER TIP
The landscape of the city allows for beautiful views from the top of the various different districts and this is best enjoyed with a coffee at sunset where you can sit and absorb the atmosphere of the city. Keep a lookout for the traditional pigeon trainers whose birds are trained to fly in beautiful circles. This sport is very popular in the Middle East and is quite spectacular. If you listen closely you can hear the trainers whistling to the birds as they fly.