Bright New World
Our new MD Clare Tobin knew she would find the magic in India. But what she didn’t expect to find was an incredible group of women who made her first trip travelling solo an experience to remember.
It was a trip of many firsts for me. My first time in India – I’d been obsessed by the colours, the textiles, and the architecture since my art student days. My first time travelling solo – long-haul trips away from the family had been impossible when my daughter was small, but now it was my chance for a mini-adventure. And my first trip with Wild Frontiers - a company with values I’d admired for a while.
My chosen trip was the comfortably paced Classic Rajasthan tour, covering the golden triangle of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, but in true Wild Frontiers style, heading away from the madding crowds at just the right times, exploring Bundi, Bijaipur and Udaipur. And the icing on the cake was that we would be there during Diwali, a big pull for me.
My expectations of India itself were high. My senses were on alert, ready to absorb the heat, the flavours, the vibrancy, the aromas, and the hustle and bustle of a place I’d always dreamed of visiting. My expectations of what it would be like travelling alone with a small group of total strangers? I must confess I was apprehensive as I landed in Delhi.
But from the moment we were all introduced by our guide Unni in the Claridges Hotel, it was clear this was going to be a formidable team. Eleven women and one man (he managed this magnificently), over half were also travelling alone, having left family at home. It was a colourful mix – senior medics, a CEO, an accountant, a judge, a film costume designer, some working, some retired, and aged between 35 and 73. There was instant connection and camaraderie – we were all in this together, and support for one another was quickly established.
On the coach heading to Agra, we started our alliance, sharing stories (past trips accomplished), anxieties (getting ill) and advice (what to wear, what to buy) with plenty of laughs along the way. Our guide Unni had a great approach of asking us what we wanted to discuss each day – be it Hinduism, the Caste system, Diwali, engineering and design of the palaces, politics – so we learned about India as well as each other.
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One of our first stops - a heart-stopping moment for me - was getting up close to the Taj Mahal in time for sunset. 22 years to build. 22,000 men to build it. All for the love of a woman. We were all moved, and a few tears were shed. The marble used is one of a kind – Unni told us it sparkles at night when the moonlight hits the mother of pearl and the coral Lajwad stone. Of course, we all wanted ‘that’ Princess Di shot. The girls and I had decided to wear our brightest colours that would stand out against the building, and even our sole man had sweetly purchased a bright shirt to join in with our wishes. The photo came out brilliantly.
Another highlight for me was on the third day when we stopped at Castle Kanota for afternoon tea. This stunning building was used as the Viceroy Club in the film Best Exotic Marigold Hotel and we were greeted by amazing splendour, as it was set up for a Diwali party later that evening for special guests. Just at that moment, the Prince arrived to check on the arrangements straight from his polo match! With gentle persuasion from our guide, he opened up the library and gave us his tour, introducing us to his grandfather’s diaries which were extraordinary and immaculate. A moment to remember!
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There was so much beauty on our visits to exquisite temples and palaces, but it was the engineering feats that took me by surprise. The Royal Court Fatehpur Sikri was a hidden treasure - and a sustainable architectural master plan. Water-filled channels ran through the rooms under the floors, providing cooling effects during the hot summer months. Using natural resources to fight humidity in the summer and cold winter nights – a real feat!
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A rickshaw ride around Jaipur with the Pink City Rickshaw Company was special for all of us. I was delighted to find out that Wild Frontiers' Foundation supports this initiative. which enables local women from low-income communities to earn a good living. The ladies took us to some of their favourite places, where we shared chai and met their families – humbling and joyous at the same time – before leaving the city behind.
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Our time spent in Bundi was a whirl of colour and celebration, and one of my favourite nights. We were hosted at a family-run hotel, Bundi Villas, for a special Diwali evening where we were able to be part of their ceremony. A roof-top dinner, sporting our bindi tattoos and best clothes, with fireworks like we’d never seen before. I think we were all suddenly aware of how lucky we were to be guests at the table.
We were led by our guide during our more crowded city visits, where there were more hawkers and beggars, he’d use the code word ‘sticky rice’ which was his instruction to keep together and keep on walking. And he was, where possible, adaptable to our needs – whether it was because we wanted to stop and shop, or because traffic was at a stand-still and a tuk-tuk was the better option to get to our next destination on time! Wild Frontiers also don’t follow the fold – there were no elephant rides offered to our group and looking at the weighed-down mammals along our journey – and being aware of the suffering these stunning beasts endure during training - we were glad.
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The heritage hotels we stayed in during the trip were all old buildings restored to offer comfort without taking away their charm. I was thankful to have avoided the gin palaces I’d read about. My favourite was Castle Bijaipur, a 350-year-old castle nestled in the countryside. Peaceful, relaxed and the ideal place to recharge for the final leg of the journey. A sunrise yoga session was worth the early wake-up call!
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As a first-timer to India, it was the perfect trip. Wild Frontiers took me safely to places I wouldn’t have felt confident exploring on my own. There’s a great balance of bustling cities, and countryside escapes where you witness families finding happiness in their simplicity. The itinerary is packed but not physically demanding. And I met and bonded with some amazing women (and one brave man). Our WhatsApp group is still active and buzzing. It’s given me the confidence to be braver with my travel choices. It’s my time to see the world and as one lady Elizabeth said, “It’s our next spring!’