Wending our way north, the scenery continued to get more rugged as we continued into Damaraland and up towards Kaokoland. Gone were the tar roads,replaced by gravel and the flat expanse changes to dramatic mountains as we passed over the spectacular Grootberg Pass with jaw dropping views.Our home was to be Etendeka Mountain Camp. Not for those looking for luxuries or for those looking to tick off big wildlife - this is a true wilderness experience and a real 'Wild Frontiers' camp - I loved it from the start.
To get there was an adventure in itself with a 1.5 hour off-road drive in a 4x4 safari vehicle through spectacular scenery. The camp is purposefully simple - it's up for the 2014 award of best eco camp in Namibia and I think it has a great shot of winning. That said, you still have solar lighting, a comfortable bed and a wonderful outdoor bathroom with a bucket shower and flush loo - what more do you need?! Morning bush walks and afternoon scenic drives are the order of the day. We saw giraffe, mountain zebra, oryx and kudu and, if you're very lucky, you may even spot black rhino or desert adapted elephants, although the focus is really on the small things that are so often missed and are fascinating too. This is semi-desert and species have had to adapt to this unforgiving harsh environment.
Above all what really makes the Etendeka special is Dennis and Bonnie, who are the heart and soul of this tented camp. Dennis set up the camp over 20 years ago - he is a charming softly spoken South African with a wealth of knowledge and passion. Bonnie, or Boniface, is a convivial host and raconteur and a top-class guide too. Meals are eaten around one table - rare in Namibia - and hosted by Dennis and Bonnie who are a great double-act. I sat next to a vet who had been at the helm of the team which eradicated rinderpest from Southern Africa. It's the kind of place which attracts colourful characters. We stayed up drinking brandy and swapping stories under the stars; Dennis also has an amazing telescope and was able to show us the constellations.
The experience at Etendeka is unpretentious, raw and from the heart - I can't recommend it highly enough.
Incidentally, talking of Namibia, you might be interested to see this lovely video taken by Frederic LeGrange, an old friend of Jonny's and Wild Frontiers: http://fredericlagrange.com/site_v2/video/project/the-grace-of-flying-skeleton-coast-namibia/
