In Africa they are called Kikoys or even Chitenge, head to India and you find a Dhoti. Stay in the Pacific Islands and you will be wearing a Lap Lap or maybe a Lavalava, travel to Brazil and you are given a Kanga. In South Asia they have Malongs and Patoongs and in the Middle East they are known as Fouta or maybe Izzar. Ancient Greeks called them Togas but in Myanmar they are called Longyi!
Men, women and children – one size fits all – this simple piece of cloth or silk, often with little or no stitching, has become so versatile over time and is used as headscarves, turbans, dresses, shawls, towels, bedding, but traditionally skirts – how simple can a wardrobe be?
I have travelled to many a country where this traditional style of clothing has been worn for centuries. At one time the longer the piece of cloth the more status you had, so wearing nine metres around your waist gave you a lot of clout! Today it is a meagre but respectable two metres. However, the strong western infiltration and influence over the years has meant this tradition is potentially dying out in some cities. Ironically in a few countries wearing a dhoti can now signify poverty, but fortunately high days and holidays and special occasions still provide an opportunity to bring to life these old traditions, with even those who have now grown into a more western style of dress code still wearing stunning embroidered saris, chitenges or sarongs at special events.
However, there are a few countries where still today this style of clothing is worn on a daily basis by all, even the next generation, and Myanmar is one of them. To my utter delight and surprise, longyis were worn by the young and the old in cities and in villages all over the country.
Throughout Myanmar, each market has a large section dedicated to the longyi – ceiling to floors are packed with row upon row of these neatly folded pieces. Such is the large variety of colours and patterns your mind is overwhelmed – plain, chequered, patterned and some intricately embroidered, all in a rainbow of shades and colours with each region having their own style of colour and weave. Somewhat brighter, almost luminous colours appear in the more local touristy areas – akin to Brighton Beach in July, where a unique range of bright and sometimes garish swimwear and beach towels are for sale!
Men in Myanmar are fairly limited with their purchase options and only have chequered – or chequered – to choose from! Whereas for women the world is their oyster in terms of choice (although blue is particularly popular, since it fades to pleasant tones); they will spend hours having their 'cotton lengths' paraded in front of them whilst they sit and sip tea. After finally having made their decision, the length of fabric is quickly whisked away to the machinists to be made up into a fully functional longyi and a traditional wraparound 'blouse'. Using old fashioned treadle singer machines, these expertly trained women and men quickly take a selection of measurements and within minutes they produce the finished item which miraculously fits like a glove first time round!
Once made, wearing the longyi is also an art! The majority of men tie their longyis in a double knot at the front allowing for lots of freedom of movement, whereas the women need to wrap them tightly around their waists, tucking them in tight on the left hand side – beautiful to look at, graceful to watch, but this restricting style reduces your body to a mere shuffle and, for those new to the game of longyi wearing, presents a great challenge when climbing the mountain of steps in each and every temple and pagoda! Let alone riding on the back of a motorbike, which even the most elegant of Burmese ladies seem to master without a second thought.
That aside, I managed to return to England once again with a suitcase full of goodies, including a large selection of longyis – sadly the current cold winter days clearly do not lend themselves to donning a thin summer skirt of any description, so practising my delicate steps will be put on hold. My new collection is a total of six lengths of fabric – there are only so many tight wraparound skirts a girl can have in my opinion! Tablecloths, cushions and napkins are therefore on the menu – another use for the simple length of fabric and no need for me to wait for summer to enjoy my new found longyis!
Tour leader Antonia Morris led the Christmas departure of our Road to Mandalay group tour, which has various departures throughout the year.
