In a world often dominated by headlines which talk about overtourism in places such as Venice, Barcelona, Lisbon and Prague to name but a few, it can sometimes be disheartening for the traveller who doesn’t want to find themselves in a melee just to get to a viewpoint or a coffee-shop, but equally doesn’t always want to travel to the remotest corners of the planet in order just to find some peace and quiet. Counting myself amongst this number, I am delighted to say that I found a solution to this perennial challenge on my most recent trip. In Algeria.

Tourism is not new to Africa’s largest country but in the words of Azedine, an ex-surgeon from Algiers who now runs a small guesthouse in the oasis town of Timimoun, as we chatted over a morning tea, “Algeria is a county which has forgotten tourism”. Algeria was never as popular as its neighbours Morocco or Tunisia, but in the 70s, 80s and early 90s, there was a growing tourism industry catering predominantly to desert lovers and overlanders. That all stopped in 1992 with the start of the so-called ‘black decade’ and has never fully recovered since. There are signs however that this is changing (admittedly very slowly as, I learnt, is typical for Algeria) but what this means is that Algeria today offers a rare opportunity to visit a truly fascinating country that isn’t too far from the UK, is considered safe and yet isn’t beset by day-trippers, Instagrammers, cruise-ships or endless stag and hen party groups.

There were many times during my recent two-week trip to Algeria when I was very pleasantly reminded of a type of travel experience that feels increasingly hard to attain these days – that of wondering around a world-class site or landscape and having it pretty much all to yourself. I certainly had that at the stunning UNESCO World Heritage Roman-era sites of Djemila and Timgad, both of which blew me away (which is saying something for someone who studied classics as university and who has had the privilege over the last 25 years of visiting incredible sites such as Jerash in Jordan or Leptis Magna in Libya). I experienced it again walking amongst the sand dunes of the Grand Erg Occidental Timimoun and even at times in busier metropolises such as Oran, Ghardaïa and Constantine when in most cases the only other visitors I saw were Algerians from other cities.

Such luxury (and I do consider this a luxury) does come at a price. You need a visa for Algeria, the process for obtaining which is getting easier but can be a bit time-consuming. You cannot just ‘rock up’ in Algeria as an independent traveller; everything needs to be booked in advance and arranged through an approved tour operator (which is obviously where we come in and why I was there). You will also most likely need a police escort (which can be fun but frustrating at times) and service levels at some hotels and restaurants are very much à l'école de Basil Fawlty. But for anyone willing to put up with these challenges and shortcomings, in 2024 Algeria offers a much-needed panacea for those like myself who prefer their travel destinations just a little less crowded.