WF travellers Howard and Hazel Darbon recently travelled on a tailor-made tour to Ecuador. Below they talk about their journey through this fascinating country.
A stunning descent into the new Quito airport, surrounded by towering volcanoes, raised the spirits after a long haul flight from a cold and murky UK. Immigration was easy and we quickly met up with our driver and guide, Andy, for the first part of our week long tailor-made trip.
After a welcome night’s rest we set off for Cotopaxi National Park. The Pan-American Highway took us southwards to the magnificent Hacienda San Agustin de Callo. We had been given ‘The Fat Ladies’ bedroom, the name becoming immediately obvious as we admired – or should we say ogled – the hand painted walls depicting naked ladies lounging around a pool. The thick blankets and open log fire ensured our two-night stay would be very cosy indeed!
Cotopaxi itself, one of the highest active volcanoes in the world, is frequently shrouded in cloud and we hoped that an early morning call – the opening of our outside shutters – would afford a clear view, but it was not to be. We arranged a local guide to drive us to the Refuge car park at 4600 metres, and then lead us up to the Refuge itself at 4800m, just on the snow line. The climb was steady and breathing quite difficult, but very worthwhile despite the mist. An afternoon visit to a rose growing ‘factory’ (roses are one of Ecuador’s main exports) which produces 60,000 stems a day was interesting.
On to Banos with brief stops at local markets and the unprepossessing village of Quizapincha, near Ambato which surprises the visitor with its array of locally produced leather goods – great for Christmas presents! Our Eco Lodge in Banos was basic but comfortable and conveniently situated for evening visits to the thermal baths and the Valley of the Waterfalls, a stunning selection of high waterfalls that could be accessed on foot or, in some cases, rickety open bucket ‘cable cars’.
An early morning start the following day ensured that we arrived for the eagerly anticipated El Nariz del Diablo (Devil’s Nose) railway, a one-hour journey switchbacking down the sheer rock face from Alausi to Sibambe. It did not disappoint. Refreshments, local dances and an interesting museum visit later and we chugged our way back up to Alausi.
Heading towards Cuenca we stopped to admire the cloud-free Chimborazo, the highest volcanic peak in Ecuador at 6268m – or even the world if the ‘bulge’ of the equator is taken into account!
Ingapirca was well worth a visit. Whilst most of this Inca site consists of remains of buildings it does boast a structure that is largely intact – The Temple of the Sun – and makes the visitor aware of how precise and adept the Incas were at building.
Onwards to Cuenca, a World Heritage Site, our final destination. With our new guide Fred, we enjoyed exploring this wonderful colonial city, particularly the old town, with its amazing cathedral, churches, markets and lovely squares and a visit to a Panama hat factory. The night’s stay in a renovated colonial building, the Hotel Mansion Alcazar, was the icing on the cake, and even the sight of guinea pigs being barbecued by the roadside did not put us off this amazing city.
