Cities of the Silk Road: A Vegetarian’s Adventure through Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan
When people think of Central Asia, they often imagine meat-heavy meals and limited options for vegetarian travellers. So, as a vegetarian, before travelling, I packed a hefty supply of snacks before setting off to Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, fully prepared to struggle for plant-based meals.
To my surprise, I was wrong! Despite some dish repetition, I found a delightful abundance of fresh fruits and vegetables and more vegetarian-friendly options than I initially thought.
I maintain a vegan lifestyle for most of the year, but when travelling, I adapt to a vegetarian diet if needed. However, strict vegans might face more challenges in those two countries, but it is not an impossible feat.
Uzbekistan, being more open to tourism, particularly in major cities like Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva, offers more readily available vegetarian meals. In Turkmenistan, particularly in rural areas, vegetarianism is a less-understood concept with fewer options than in Uzbekistan. Nevertheless, if you’re open to minor adjustments, you’ll find satisfying meals in both countries.
Central Asian meals typically start with a spread of vegetable starters made from ingredients like aubergine, carrots, pumpkin, beetroots and tomatoes, often followed by a hearty soup. Lentil, mushroom, and pumpkin soups were the most common ones I encountered. Grilled or stewed vegetables are the typical main course, with often a side of rice.
Plov is Central Asia’s iconic rice dish, usually prepared with meat. However, I discovered a vegetarian version made with yellow carrots, chickpeas, dried fruits, and garlic. This flavourful alternative turned out to be one of my favourite meals!
Samsas (from the Persian "Samosa") are savoury pastries popular in both countries. In the vegetarian version, they’re often filled with pumpkin, potatoes, or spinach. I was lucky to try pumpkin Samsas in Uzbekistan and during a cooking class in Turkmenistan, where we learned how to make Turkmen-style Samsas. It was a fantastic way to connect with local culinary traditions!
Dumplings are also very popular in these two countries. Although the original recipe is filled with meat, it is very common to find a tasty vegetarian option filled with pumpkin.
In Khiva, I discovered Tukhum Barak, a type of ravioli filled with spinach or eggs and served with sour cream. Another highlight was Shivit Oshi, a vibrant green noodle dish infused with dill and served with a vegetable stew. These local dishes were a true treat for a vegetarian traveller looking to taste authentic flavours.
Bread is special for both Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan’s cuisine and culture. Freshly baked round loaves are served at the start of every meal, often decorated uniquely depending on the region. Uzbek bread, or non, is round with a thicker edge, while Turkmen bread, known as çörek, is flatter but equally delightful. No matter where you go, you’ll always find bread on the table.
One of the joys of travelling as a vegetarian is exploring the vibrant markets and bazaars. Here, I found an array of fresh and dried fruits, nuts, and local bread – perfect for on-the-go snacks. These markets were places to discover local food and a unique window into the local way of life.
Travelling as a vegetarian in Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan was much easier than expected. While options may be limited, especially in rural areas, the abundance of fresh produce and the willingness of the locals to accommodate my dietary choices made my journey fulfilling and enjoyable.
For any vegetarian or vegan adventurer considering Central Asia, I wholeheartedly recommend embracing the experience. With an open mind and a little flexibility, you’ll discover flavours and traditions that make the journey unforgettable.
